Step-by-Step: How to Professionally Install Stone or Metal Garden Edging

Edging is the "eyeliner" of landscaping. A clean, professional installation not only dramatically improves your garden's appearance but also serves vital functions: it retains mulch, prevents the lawn from invading your flowerbeds, and makes mowing easier.

Whether you choose the timeless elegance of stone or the modern, clean design of metal (Corten Steel or Galvanized), the key is meticulous preparation. Below are the steps to install both materials like a true professional.

Phase 1: Planning and Ground Preparation (Applicable to Both Materials)

The precision in preparation is what separates an amateur job from a professional one.

1. Design and Mark the Line

Key Tool: Use a flexible garden hose to outline the contour. For straight lines, use a string line stretched between stakes. The hose allows you to visualize and adjust curves before digging.
Permanent Mark: Once satisfied with the shape, use landscaping spray paint or flour to trace a precise cutting line along the hose.
Calculate Quantity: Measure the length of the marked line to determine how many linear meters of edging you need.

2. Dig the Trench (The Base)

Use a sharp shovel or a half-moon edger to dig a continuous trench along the marked line.
Depth: The general rule is that the trench should be as deep as the edging material, leaving the top edge at the desired height (usually ground level or no more than 1−2 cm above to prevent tripping and ease mowing).
Width: The width will depend on the material, but it should be enough to work comfortably (about 10 to 15 cm).

Phase 2: Installing Metal Edging (Corten Steel / Galvanized)

Metal edging offers a minimalist aesthetic and is relatively quick to install.

3. Prepare and Position the First Section

Cutting and Connection: If the metal comes in sections, join them according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually with connecting plates or overlapping systems). If you need to shorten a piece, use an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc. Pro Tip: Always wear protective gloves.
Positioning: Place the first section of metal edging in the trench, ensuring the anchoring systems or spikes point downwards.

4. Anchor the Edging and Level

Fixing: Use a rubber mallet or a hammer (hitting on a block of wood to protect the metal) to gently drive the edging down to the final desired height.
Reinforcement Stakes: If your edging requires anchoring stakes (common with Corten steel), insert them through the pre-cut holes and drive them firmly into the ground (usually every 60−90 cm, or closer on curves).
Leveling: Constantly check with a long spirit level to ensure the top edge is perfectly level and straight (or follows a uniform curve).

5. Backfilling and Finish

Backfill the trench on both sides of the metal with the same soil you excavated.
Compaction: Use your shovel and feet to firmly compact the soil around the edge. Good compaction ensures the edging won't shift over time or due to frost.

Phase 3: Installing Stone or Paver Edging

Stone installation requires a more solid base, similar to paving.

3. Create the Setting Bed

Trench Bottom: A deep trench is not enough. For professional stability, the trench must have a base layer.
Solid Option (Recommended): Pour a layer of 1 to 2 cm of coarse sand or compactible gravel into the bottom of the trench. This "sand bed" acts as a cushion, improves drainage, and facilitates the individual leveling of each stone.
Compacting the Base: Lightly water and compact the sand with a wooden board or a hand tamper.

4. Set the Stone and Level

Placement: Begin setting the stones or pavers firmly onto the sand bed, working from one end.
Individual Leveling: Use a rubber mallet to gently tap each piece until it is at the correct height and level relative to your string guide. If a stone is too low, lift it and add a little more sand underneath; if it is too high, hit it harder.
Pro Tip: Leave a uniform joint of 0.5 to 1.5 cm between each stone for later filling.

5. Joint Filling and Securing (The Final Touch)

Lateral Fixing: Backfill and compact the soil on the sides of the stone edging.
Joint Filling: If you used pavers, sweep polymeric sand or fine river sand over the joints. Polymeric sand activates with water and hardens, locking the stones in place and preventing weed growth.
Once dry, the stone edging will be rock solid, ready to withstand the test of time and weather.

Quick Summary: The Professional Factor

Task	Metal Edging	Stone / Paver Edging
Trench	Narrow and precise.	Wider for the base.
Base	Compacted soil or fine sand (optional).	Required: 1−2 cm of coarse sand or gravel.
Fixing	Metal stakes and rubber mallet.	Rubber mallet and leveling on the sand bed.
Final Touch	Backfilling and compacting soil.	Joint filling with polymeric sand (recommended).